Off the beaten track - by Susan Poizner
Sunday Sun 9/4/2005

Steam train follows Gatineau River to historic Wakefield

In Agatha Christie's mystery "Murder on the Orient Express", a Russian princess, an Indian Army Colonel, a Swedish missionary and an assortment of other colourful characters find themselves together on a luxurious steam train. When it is discovered that an American tycoon has been brutally murdered, these strangers have to unravel a mystery in which no one is above suspicion.

This classic tale was written in the 1930s when steam trains were still at the height of their popularity. Their plush décor, fine dining cars and overnight cabins made these locomotives amongst the most romantic ways to travel. Soon the steam train would become obsolete, replaced by diesel and electric engines. And yet, with the clickety clack of the wheels and the toot of the whistle, riding a steam train is still an unforgettable experience.

One of Canada's last operating steam trains can be found just minutes away from central Ottawa. Leaving from Hull, Quebec, the Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield train built in 1907 (www.steamtrain.ca) takes adventurous travelers on a leisurely route along the Gatineau River and through Gatineau Park, home to no less than one thousand plant species. The park also has at least 40 types of trees, which are ablaze with vibrant fall colours at this time of year.

They say that sometimes the joy of travel is in the journey and not the destination. But this ride into the past takes you off the beaten track to the charming historic town of Wakefield, home to at least half a dozen artisans, many of whom will be opening their doors to visitors during the "Artists In the Environment Tour" taking place on the weekends of September 18-19 and 25-26 (www.arttourchelseawakefield.com).

Autumn weekends are a busy time for this sleepy town, but visitors on weekday breaks will experience the slower pace of this village where there is an old-style patisserie and boulangerie, plenty of gift shops and a general store. From here you can go on hikes or bike rides into the wilderness, go horseback riding, swimming or canoeing in the river, or just wander through the surrounding neighbourhood, imagining what life was like a century ago when many of these homes were built.

The Township of Wakefield was established in the 1830s by immigrants from Ireland England and Scotland. French-speaking settlers arrived soon after. One of the first to realize the potential of this resource-rich region was a Scot called William Fairbairn, who built a Grist Mill for the growing farming community there in 1838. The MacLaren family later bought out the mill and expanded it to include a saw mill, brick yard, a woollen mill, workers houses and a general store. Today the impressive stone mill is home to an inn and gourmet French restaurant.

Another historic building in town is "The Doctor's House" which was built in 1896 when Dr Hans Stevenson had his office and operating rooms in the home where he and his family lived. This beautiful building has now been turned into a lovely B&B restored and operated by a friendly retired Ottawa policeman and his wife. (www.lestroiserables.com).

After spending a day or two exploring Wakefield by foot or bike (there are bike rentals there) you'll be relaxed, recharged, and ready to steam back into the present. At 3pm the train sets off from Wakefield to Hull. On the way back, you can look out the window and dream of the hard-working, slower-paced and simpler life our ancestors lived.

Susan Poizner is a freelance journalist and producer of the travel/heritage TV series Mother Tongue. For more information visit www.mothertongue.ca